Preparing the Workshop
Having recently moved into my townhome, the garage was fairly empty to begin with, so I didn’t have to store, sell, or otherwise throw out a bunch of stuff, which was nice. It was also sheet-rocked and insulated which saved even more time. The below photo is my before shot (click on the photo for a larger image). I’ve managed to misplace my after shots, but when they turn up I’ll be sure to upload them.
The first thing I did was to remove all the miscellaneous shelving that the previous owner had installed and patch up all the holes in the sheet rock. Then I primed and painted the walls and ceiling white, which took way longer than I imagined. Good thing I didn’t choose painting as a career. Next I installed (4) 4 foot fluorescent light fixtures on the ceiling so that I’d have plenty of light. There were two incandescent light fixtures in the ceiling already, so I didn’t have to do any electrical work other than swapping the fixtures for power outlets.
I wasn’t going to get off scott-free (what does that mean, anyway?) with all electrical work, however. I planned on purchasing an air compressor, and most of the larger ones I looked at ran on 240 volts AC, and my garage didn’t have a 240V outlet. I discovered that there was 240V wiring running over to my dryer, but since the dryer was gas, it was not energized. All I needed was to install a 20 amp circuit breaker in my panel, splice into this wiring, run it out to the garage, and install a NEMA 6-20 outlet. Once again, this took longer than expected, but the finished product looks pretty professional in my opinion.
What workshop would be complete without a good work bench? I thought about this for a long time, and went to Home Depot a bunch of times trying to figure the best work surface that didn’t cost a fortune. One day I was talking to a coworker about this, and he mentioned that his neighbor had some bowling alley lanes, cut up, in his yard. Sounded like a good future work bench to me, so he managed to cut off a 44″ by 8′ section for me. I had a friend with a truck help me move it… good thing, as it weighs a ton (not literally). Another friend helped me build a support frame out of 4x4s, then lift, mount, and fasten the surface to the frame. It all worked out great, and the total cost was only about $50.
In between all these projects, I was buying tools. Below is the minimum required tool list from the SQ2000 construction manual. I have obtained nearly all of these tools at this point, as well as a 6.5 HP Craftsman air compressor and a host of pneumatic tools. The compressor is a great asset, and I would encourage any would-be builders to make the investment. Regardless of the ability to run pneumatic tools, just having the air gun is a great asset for removing dust and such. The only drawback is noise–not that it bothers me, but since I live in a townhouse I worry about disturbing my neighbors.
It was June, 1998 now, and the workshop was basically complete. I bought another free-standing storage unit and put up some more shelves, including one over the work bench with a rod to hold one roll of fiberglass. I considered building an enclosure to hold several rolls of fiberglass, but decided it would be better to keep the idle rolls inside the house. I only use one weave at a time during layups (generally) and keeping the other rolls in the house will keep them dust- and moisture-free.
Soon the kit would arrive and I could focus my efforts on building a plane, instead of building a workshop…
| Tool | Application |
|---|---|
| Sockets (SAE) | 1/4 inch drive as a minimum; 3/8 inch drive for engine work. |
| Wrenches (SAE, open end and box end) | At least one set of both box end and open end wrenches is required. |
| Torque Wrench | Final torque settings of bolts. |
| Screwdrivers (Slotted and Phillips) | General use. |
| Pliers | General use. |
| Clamps | At least 4 large C-Clamps will be required; 24 inch pipe-type joining clamps are also very desirable. |
| Power Drill | General drilling. Note you will need to drill 5/8 inch holes when mounting the wings. You will need both fractional and numbered bits. |
| Jig Saw and Blades | General cutting of foam and glass. Buy an assortment of blades for both ferrous metal, non-ferrous metal, fiberglass and wood. |
| Sander | Sanding of foam, glass and surface cleaning of metal. |
| Belt Sander | 1" Delta or Makita belt sander is recommended. An air tool equivalent is a straight sander that takes 1.5 inch strips. |
| Razor Knives and Blades | Knife trimming of glass and minor trim work. |
| Micro-Stop Countersink Tool | This tool appears to be a luxury, but one slip of a countersink can destroy a very expensive part. Buy a set of piloted bits, as well. |
| Coping Saw | General Cutting. |
| X-Acto Knife Set | Precise cutting. |
| 2" Sanding Drum for Hand Drill | Sanding operations in restricted areas. |
| Files | You will need a large variety of files to complete this project. As a minimum, invest in a 12 inch mill bastard file, several mid-size files, and a 6 inch fine file. |
| Stanley Surform Tool | This tool is available in 6 and 12 inch sizes. Get both. You can make a straight trim faster than any file. |
| Decimal Rule | General measurement. A 12 foot tape, supplemented by 6,12 and 24 inch decimal rulers with straight edges is desirable. |
| Levels | A four foot length bubble level is the minimum; a digital one is recommended. Digital units such as the Smart Level are now available that read down to tenths of degrees, accuracy than can’t be achieved with a bubble level. |
| Straight Edge | Six foot length. |
| Water Level | This is actually about 10 feet of Tygon or clear acrylic tubing filled with colored water. |
| Plumb Bob | Establishing level lines and vertical lines. |
| Framing Squares | You will probably want several Framing Square sizes; 6 inch for interior work, and a 2 foot one for less crowded areas. |
| Aircraft Tubing Flare Tool | Used to perform 37 degree flares, which are the aviation standard. DO NOT USE AN AUTOMOTIVE FLARE TOOL. These are 45 degrees, and will result in eventual leaking. |
| Nicopress Swage | Used to swage Nicopress fittings. An expensive lever tool is available, but the less expensive block type is acceptable. |
| Gloves Latex or Vinyl | Required for use in epoxying and when sanding or filing fiberglass to avoid dust. |
| Dust Mask | Required for when sanding or shaping fiberglass to avoid dust. |
| Supplied Air Breathing System | Required when spray painting. Also, highly desirable when sanding. |
| Scale | Required to weigh resin and hardener. Preferably should read in Grams from 1 through 2,000. |
| Scissors | Used for cutting fiberglass. Obtain high quality ones intended for this purpose, and keep them sharp! Wiss model 20 W recommended. |
| Brushes | Obtain an assortment of at least 100, 1 and 2 inch brushes. |
| Mixing Sticks | Mixing Epoxy, Flox, and Micro. You will use at least 500 of these. |
| 8 and 16 Oz. Mixing Cups (At least 150) | Mixing Epoxy, Flox and Micro. |
| Plastic Squeegees | Used to position filler materials and work resin into fabrics. |
| Duct Tape | Holding parts in place for bonding |
| Rotary Blade cutter for cutting glass cloth | Used as an alternative to scissors when cutting glass |
| Skin protector | Applied to your hands and arms to keep epoxy from sticking. |
| Hot Glue Gun and Glue Sticks | Used to quickly make non- structural bonds. Typically holds parts while structural attachment is performed. |
| 3" Wide Roller | Used to force glass layers together to speed up wetting out process, and reduce resin content of lay-up. |
| Soldering Iron | Soldering Iron |
| Crimp Tool | Select tools consistent with the crimp parts/series you have selected. Crimp tools can be specific to manufacturer¹s connector series. |
| Wire Cutters | Wire cutting. |
| Wire Strippers | Wire stripping |

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